We took the water bus to Murano today to see the famous glass factories and show rooms. Since it was Saturday, not many of the demonstrations were running, but we did get to see an artist make a horse out of glass in under a minute. It was amazing. Wandering through the little island about 20 minutes off the main part of Venice was outstanding. Venice is certainly casting its spell on me, even through it is super hot, humid and very very sunny outside. I am applying sun tan lotion at least twice a day and am still getting quite the tan.

Venice is expensive, especially if you stick to the touristy areas and the main drags. We wandered into Saint Mark’s square and were blown away at the number of people. The tourists had overwhelming numbers, but the people selling things had extensive numbers as well, selling post cards for 1 euro, which you could find for 30 cents around the corner.

Lindsay and I have gotten really good at finding the small local bars and restaurants where the locals go, which usually means a higher quality of food for less money. Today, in Murano, we passed restaurant after restaurant with tourist menus for 10, 15, 20 euro a person. We turned a corner, went up a side street and found a local snack bar with sandwiches on sale for 3 euro each. I had a ricotta cheese with chopped spinach in a sesame seed roll, toasted panini style. This afternoon, around 4pm, I found myself hungry again, so I wandered down the street from our hostel to a local deli. In the window was a roll, with green olives and cheese on the inside for 1€30 a slice. I went inside, pointed and pronounced the name on the card in very bad italian. She cut me a slice, then said “hot?” She toasted it up for me so the cheese got melty and the roll got crusty and it was the tastiest thing I have ever eaten. A few cherries from a fruit vendor and some of the cold water that runs from the lion fountains in every square and I was happy again.

Outside of the balcony of our hostel, there are two gondolas, with their gondoliers trying to rustle up fares.  It is surreal to actually be here, but we are enjoying every minute of it.

I spent the afternoon with Rick Steves, of PBS fame.  Not literally, of course, but I spent nearly three hours reading his Venice 2007 guide book, then watched his television program as he roamed around Istanbul while I made dinner.  I have found his brand of travel guides; book, television show and website, to be most helpful, because they echo my sentiments about traveling as well.

Rick’s theory of travel seems to be: See the sights that the tourists come to see, then get as far away from them as possible. Especially in Europe, it is possible to travel there for weeks and never leave the “Intercontinental” hotels and Americanized restaurants.  Then, when you leave, you will have only experienced a transplanted version of home, for a much steeper price then if you had just stayed home.

I am happy that Lindsay is on board for the “Europe through the back door” approach to this trip.  I am hoping to linger in Italian piazzas with a gelato, sip coffee in small French cafes, wander through local markets, eat in tiny, family owned restaurants and pubs and experience all that Europe has to offer, off of the beaten path.

I have thoroughly enjoyed reading the Venice 2007 guide book.  Aside from where the sites are located, how to find them, what time they are open and how much they cost, Rick has an entire section on the history of the region and why certain things are important to see.  All of this background information, from how Venice achieved world power after smuggling the remains of St. Mark into their city to why the gondolas are painted black (six coats of paint- the result of a 17th century law a doge enacted to eliminate competition between nobles for the fanciest rig) fascinates me and I am sure will deepen my appreciation of the city’s beauty and declining wealth.  I have yet to find another guide book who treats the history of the city with such interest and insists on tying it to every explanation of how to best travel the grand canal or what parts of the city to avoid.  I will be picking up more of Rick’s books as I go along!